Friday 11 December 2009

A Dessert to Mull Over

I haven't done a dessert in a while and so here we are. A cook's dessert that is easy to make, better when you let it set and fairly inexpensive.

Panna Cotta is a straight forward dessert that takes no time to make. The only catch is that you have to let it set in the fridge for a few hours before you serve. If you have the time to make it in advance for your party, it is well worth the patience.

Panna Cotta is strictly cream, milk, sugar and gelatin to let it set. An easy foundation that is highly adaptable.

Gelatin is available at all major grocers and is very inexpensive. If you are not aware, gelatin is a meat by-product that comes from the bone marrow. It can be purchased as a powder or as a clear, brittle sheet. It is usually found in, obviously, JELL-O, marshmallows, candies such as gummy bears and low-fat yogurt. When making a homemade chicken stock, if reduced too much, the stock becomes thick from the gelatin in the bone marrow. In fact, Demi Glace is a classic sauce, that essentially is a reduction of either beef or veal stock, that is so naturally thick from gelatin, that it is barely pourable. Very flavourful and usually very expensive.

Mulled cider has become a bit of a staple for me. Prior to working for a retailer that sampled Mulling Spices, I was not too familiar with the idea of spicing up cider or wine. And yet, I now appreciate the blend of spices for what they offer: a rich combination of flavours and an intoxicating aroma that spreads through the house. Mulling spices is basically a blend of whole cloves, cinammon sticks and allspice. However, that is strictly a base that you can expand from.

This recipe I recently taught in a cooking class and I was very happy with the final product. It had a nice appearance, vibrant flavours and a creamy texture that all came together.

Mulled Spice Panna Cotta

8 g Gelatin, powder (1 packet)
150 ml 2% Milk
350 ml 35% Cream
Mulling Spices (2 cinammon sticks, 4 whole cloves, pinch of ground allspice, zest of an orange)
Splash of Vanilla Extract
100 g Sugar
Drizzle of Maple Syrup
Berries and Mint for Garnish

In a stainless steel bowl, pour milk and sprinkle gelatin on top. Mix with a fork.

In a sauce pan, heat cream with spices and sugar. Bring to a scald and let her simmer for a minute. Strain spices. Add cream to milk. Add vanilla and stir. Pour cream into 4 ramekins (buttered is optional) and let set for at least 4 hrs.

Garnish with berries and mint.

Serves 4.

A Humble Chef's tip: it is easier to remove spices if you have a large infuser.

Variation: to keep it festive, try a Cranberry Orange Panna Cotta by subbing the milk with cranberry and orange juice.

Thursday 10 December 2009

Do Yourself a Party Favour Endive Right In

I often get asked what would be an easy yet elegant hors d'oeurve they can serve at New Years. I try to keep the work at a minimum when it comes to little bit sized app's. Because the work itself will be painstaking no matter what recipe you do: you will end up making all of your app's one by one. It's usually not as much fun when you have to make 2.5 pieces of everything you make.

It is common for catering companies to make 2.5 app's of each type per person. For example, you have 20 people. And you intend to make 4 types of hors d'oeuvre, then 2.5 times 4 making 10 multiplied by how many people there are; in this case 20. 200 pieces in total. Seems like a lot but when you figure that each one is intended only to be a bite size portion, it really isn't.

Doing little party snacks often don't get the appreciation they deserve. A ton of work usually go into it and most people consider them as a filler before dinner. Shame really. But that's the way things go. And so, in the industry, many establishments will outsource their hors d'oeurve from another business who would specialize in the production of this type of dish.

Endives are wonderful little vegetables. They have a unique flavour to them, can be easily used for garnishes and are great additions for salads. They are also great for hors d'oeurve as well. Unlike crostinis or crackers, there is no work involved in prepping them. Simply break the leaves off the core and serve.

To avoid confusion, endives are cone shaped and have layers that easily break off. In Canada, we call them Belgian Endives. I've worked with several cooks who called it something different (chicory, which we in Canada know it as something else, and witloof) but we all eventually understood each other. I've even worked with someone from Sri Lanka who referred to frisee as an endive. Suffice to say, we were both confused at first.

I've never seen endives grown myself, but like the white asparagus, it is deprived of sunlight to reduce the chances of it opening or turning green. A good rule of thumb for me when purchasing endives are to pick out the whitest ones. If there is chlorophyll, chances are it will be slightly bitter. Not better.

Crab and Watermelon Salad on an Endive

1 Can of Cooked Crab, chopped
1/2 Small Watermelon, medium dice
1 Small Red Onion, finely diced
Splash of Lemon Juice
Small bunch of Basil, chiffonade
Drizzle of Olive Oil
3 Endives
Salt and Pepper to Taste

In a large bowl, combine crab, watermelon, red onion, lemon juice and basil.Mix well and season to taste. Lat marinate for 15 - 20 minutes and drain.

Preplatter endives on large plates. Spoon desired amounts on endive and serve quickly.

Makes about 20 hors d'oeurve.

Variation: no crab? Try lobster. No watermelon? Try mango. No Basil? Try a new store.

A Humble Chef's tip: you can buy crab frozen instead and thaw it and poach it and cool it and break it and clean it and chop it and season it and serve it. Or buy the can and open it.

Sunday 6 December 2009

Food Pearing

Today we have two recipes. I've decided to provide two side dishes that you may want to serve during the holidays. These recipes are extremely simple yet add a little elegance to the norm.

Apple sauce has always been a staple for large pork roasts. Personally, I am a fan of combining a little sweetness to a savoury roast. Though, there is no need to limit to pork. I'm sure many of you serve Cranberry Sauce with your turkey dinner. But, for a change I have a recipe that will certainly make your guests raise one eyebrow with the name, then both eyebrows with the taste.

As for the potatoes, during a busy time I like to keep things simple and still tasty. For large groups of people, I don't recommend a complex sides like Pomme Dauphine. But, you could go for my Mashed Potatoes and have it done in advance. However, roasting your potatoes is easy, tasty and a little more elegant than mashed. Well, at least, I think so.

Kiwi Pear Sauce

4 Kiwis, peeled and roughly chopped
8 Bosc Pears, peeled and roughly chopped
100 g Sugar
100 ml Water
Pinch of Cinammon
1/2 Stick of Butter

In a sauce pan, combine everything but the butter. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cover for 12 - 15 minutes.

Remove from heat.

In a frying pan, melt butter until golden and frothy. Here you want to caramelize the milk solids to make a Beurre Noisette. Fold into sauce and serve.

Serves 8 - 10.

Herb Crusted Potatoes

16 Mid-Sized Yukons, cut into 8's, in cold water
Small Bunch of Fresh Thyme, finely chopped
Small Bunch of Fresh Rosemary, finely chopped
Small Bunch of Fresh Parsley, finely chopped
1 Clove of Garlic, crushed
Pinch of Cayenne and Paprika
Drizzle of Peanut Oil
Salt and Pepper to Taste

Preheat oven to 400.

In a tall sauce pan, fill with water and table spoon of salt. Bring to slight boil. Blanch potatoes until three quarters cooked. Remove from water and let cool slightly.

In a large bowl, combine oil, salt and pepper, seasonings and herbs and mix. Add potatoes and toss. Lay out evenly on a baking sheet with parchement.

Cook in oven for 10 minutes.

Serve immediately.

Serves 16. Two if they're Irish.


A Humble Chef's tip: if you have a food mill, don't bother peeling and seeding the pears when cooking. Then run your mix and puree through the mill.

Variation: for the potatoes, go ahead and try some of your herbs leftover from the summer garden. Oregano, sage, savory. Whatever you have.